Friday, March 14, 2014

Day 3: to Cizur Menor

Quite a day. It started badly, with the noisiest bunks in the world (and some of the noisiest pilgrims). By 4am I was ready to do murder. However by about 8.30, a few K in and with a fabulous coffee and French toast in my belly (and none of the annoying peeps in earshot) I was feeling much more cheerful.



An easy 15k into Pamplona which had a lovely old town on the top of a hill surrounded by old fortifications. The Brierley guide, which seems to be the most used, says you should bin or post home anything you haven't used by Pamplona, waterproofs and first aid kits aside. Niall took him at his word and has sent home his spanking new, unworn-in boots, buying hiking trainers instead. Niall can now walk faster than the rest of us... My feet on the other hand are disintegrating. And as I write this I sit with my feet in a salt bath, soaking off compeed and hopefully soaking in some toughness!

The main event of the day was an excellent yet foolhardy drinking and eating session in Pamplona main square in the roasting midday sun. The most amazing food, including an enormous lump of lamb in a beautiful Art Deco cafe. We dined well but not too wisely, as they say. The sun / wine combo certainly made the last few K tough. However tonight's accommodation is super peaceful, comfy, and, as yet, loud-Italian-girl-free.

The landscape has changed so rapidly. The Basque start was like a little Switzerland with chalets, steep hills and spring meadows. The Pyrennean foothills have been mostly rolling and often wooded, with lots of small streams to cross. Today as we left Pamplona we moved towards the plains that will be the norm for a long while now. Also attractive, but with potential to fry you in summer, I imagine.

As it is I've got a shiny pink nose and a the start of a farmer tan - it was 2 deg when we left this morning but is now 21 (in the shade) according to the last shop I saw. Plenty hot enough but this weather can't last, warns our very sweet hostel-keeper.

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