Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Day 33: to Regensburg (95; 2031)

What a day.

At 4am the weather broke, at least temporarily, and I lay awake enjoying the cool and listening to the freight-train noises that squalls of wind make as they howl towards your tent across a wooded area. By 7 it was cool and overcast, by 10.30 it was sunny but I was thinking 'yup, definitely cooler than yesterday' when I saw a thermometer registering 30 deg. Comes to something when that feels cool. Big thunderstorms are forecast... As yet no rain has fallen.

Good news from Greece means that I spent a fair bit of this morning reconsidering my plans. If Alex and Duncan won't be there in July, my motivation for heading south (into increasing heat and mountains) is considerably lessened. Suddenly I feel free to go anywhere... After Budapest I mean.

Anyway: cycling. I set off the wrong way but a friendly local cyclist stopped me and put me right. The first 15k were straight and beautiful along a cycle track bordering the Danube on one side and a military zone on t'other. The Danube by now looking much wider and more peaceful.

The morning in general was easy - I had been rather fearing it as my map noted loads of uphill. When I found it quite easy I credited this to Nutella (breakfast of champions), only to notice on a reread that the steep buts were downhills, not up. Oh well, either way my legs aren't burning half as much after 24 hours off from hills.

At noon I arrived into Weltenberg, a hot honeypot due to its ancient monastery which continues to brew beer and milk tourists. 

Oh happy day! There's a boat, which is the traditional way for cyclists to avoid 10k or so of hot uphill while viewing one of the most spectacular sections. So I finally cruise the Danube, through fast-flowing limestone gorges. There's a handful of souls kayaking and little boys floating downstream on their bellies (these guys absolutely have the right idea) but other than them and our boat it is a very peaceful scene indeed. There's a German commentary, of which I of of course understand one word in five ('left-hand side' etc). I think one of the landmarks was a '5 million year old meteor crater' but it's entirely possible it was 500 million or indeed 5 thousand. I've not had reason to learn large numbers yet!

A hot afternoon was vastly improved by two swims: one half way along where I startled the locals by just ripping off my Tshirt and shoes and running in, bliss; and one instead of a shower this evening. 

Destination Regensburg - a town with 1000 listed buildings. Thus far I have seen the park, the river, and Netto. (Why does Germany have such abysmal taste in supermarkets? I've seen only Aldi, Netto and Lidl for days...) 

Update, later: well it's still massively humid but possibly less hot tonight, cool enough at least that I found the energy to head into town. It is a nice and rather majestic place with lots going on, including an organ recital in the cathedral so I couldn't enter. It also has both a travel book and map shop, and a penknife shop (sad to say I left mine at my breakfast perch earlier today, and miss it already). The shops don't open till ten though, so part of me thinks I may start late tomorrow and go for a short leg after perusing the cycling Europe maps for a bit!

The wind is rising - let's see what the night brings.


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