Sunday, June 1, 2014

Day 23: to Neuf-Brisach (82k;1327 total)

The first day of summer has brought out the pilgrims, lizards, and dragonflies.

Well maybe just 'cos it's a hot and sunny Sunday, rather than because it's the first of June.

The way out of Strasbourg was, you guessed it, a canal - this one I think the canal du Rhine au Rhone (or vice versa). It got progressively smaller and more verdant until it was considerably less navigable than the river Cam. As a result it was also rather lacking in refreshment stops. After 40k, in desperation, I headed off the river and into the very definitely closed town of Sundhouse. Luckily there was one Sunday-opening restaurant and it was excellent, rustling me up an Orangina and a delicious French ploughmans equivalent while the slightly inbred-looking locals tried not to gawp at me. Apparently there was a festival this weekend, it was Zumba party night tonight. Hmm...

Post lunch I thought: sod this canal, and headed across country into Germany for a little more time with the Rhine. It too looks rather more peaceful (and narrow) here, in part because some of its might is taken off by hydro schemes on the grand canal de Alsace, which runs in between the dinky canal and the Rhine proper.

I spent a rather hot afternoon dodging lounging lizards on the path and dragonflies, and trying to keep my mouth shut and my hat brim down against the frequent swarms of tiny flies. They're not biters, just swarmers, but my tendency to open-mouthed gawping and/or heavy breathing while cycling is a problem! It definitely looks drier and hotter now I am finally heading due south, and I'm glad to say I'm back in stork country once more.

Early in the day I was caught up by a nice mid-40s lady on a bike who cycled and chatted alongside me for a while. She was cycling to her boyfriend's house up the canal, and told me that she'd run Edinburgh half marathon with her previous boyfriend and another race in Connemara with the boyfriend before that. (..and she wanted to know why I didn't have a boyfriend with me!).

In the afternoon I overtook three middle aged German gents carrying shells and heading for Santiago. They hadn't been going very long and looked slightly shocked to be randomly hailed by me. I can't help thinking they've got a tough road ahead as they will be walking into ever-hotter weather. I can't really compute how far it could be from here to Santiago but it has to be 3 or 4 months... It cheered me to see them (and started me singing a dreadful Evici song which was our camino theme tune). Coincidentally a guy at the next table from me at breakfast this morning was wearing a camino t-shirt. He was one of the EuroCelts that I saw parading yesterday.

I eventually made it into Brisach, which is underlined on my map, indicating it as a 'picturesque town'. I guess I should have learnt by now not to approach such places on sunny Sundays! It was teeming, possibly with a festival but maybe just regular tourist-density. I eventually made it through the hordes and back over the river crossing to France. Amusingly the no-mans land just before the border contained - as well as the standard petrol station - a McDs, a strip joint, a bakery, and a casino. Not sure why Germans feel they need to stock up on those particular things before hitting France; it strikes me they're things France has an abundance of!

Back in cycle-friendly but cycle-path-casual France I headed for Neuf-Brisach, the 'newer' cousin. It's actually a 17th century fortified town built in an octagon surrounded by enormous star-shaped ramparts (a UNESCO site of course). So I am continuing my sleeping-in-heritage-sites tour by camping at a lovely site that I think may be just inside the ramparts. For 7 euros including free showers and a friendly owner, what a bargain.

I was planning on going out exploring this evening but instead have (FINALLY!) done washing, eaten noodles, and am now considering lazing around watching the world go by instead. Perhaps the ramparts can keep till after my fresh croissant tomorrow.

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