Day 30: to Ulm (69,1772)

Just wrote a long and slightly self-pitying entry, and then accidentally deleted it, hurrah for the iPhone! In summary: it's bloody hot (32 at 6pm) and staying so for a while, and I need to find a better strategy to cope with it.

Also: Ulm is surprisingly nice! Tallest minster in Europe.

Day 29: to Riedlingen (91; 1703)

I woke up singing Florence and the Machine (...'it's always darkest before the dawn..'). With a start like that, this was always going to be a good day. Though with a forecast of 32 deg it was also going to be a total scorcher.

Without any breakfast or other distractions I speedily got through the morning pack-up and was rolling by 8.15. Definitely a record, though by the time I had returned my key to the swimming baths, which keeps them, and been to Lidl for emergency supplies, it was after 9. Incidentally, if you should ever go to Tuttlingen the thermal baths look amazing. 

This section of Danube was simply stunning: limestone gorges and only bikes, walkers and tractors for miles. The path was through hay meadows and forests, and the sluggish-looking river had white flowers growing all over it and beaver living in it, apparently. The morning's countryside in general looked a lot like the bits of southern Bulgaria that Mum and I rode through a couple of years ago, including a towering monastery on the cliffs overhead.

After 35k the gorge began to widen and I passed the campsite I had vaguely hoped to reach yesterday. (No chance: plenty more hills this morning, one of which took my chain off as I crunched gears badly, though no permanent harm done).

The rest of the day was a mix of hilly woods and flat fields, merciful shade and hot breezes. Early afternoon I shot through Sigmaringen, a large-ish town where the population was walking around the riverside in bikinis, and then broke the golden rule with a large beer at a museum cafe around 3pm, with still 20k to go. It seemed to help though, and I powered through the remaining cornfields in a happy daze.

This seems a very religious part of the world, with crosses and shrines and crucified Jesuses liberally scattered around the landscape.

On a funny roll with low-key campsites. I shared my park last night with a bunch of French families, and an (unrelated) French boy who I had seen repeatedly yesterday. He is notable for having his lovely scruffy dog in a trailer behind him. 'So I'm not travelling alone' he told me. Very sweet, but I felt for him pulling the trailer up those hills!

Tonight is a small field in someone's farm. It's very nice however and, though nearly empty when I arrived, now filling up fast with other cyclocampers. I'm constantly amused by a) how much effort caravaners go to (lace tablecloths, flowers etc) and b) the need to plant a national flag wherever you go. I had been thinking it would actually be quite useful to show a British one, so people would stop speaking German to me and might be more inclined to English. But I am amused by hastily put-up tents with proud flags erect. Also by the need for old Dutch/Deutsch men to walk around in speedos... We're not near a bathing place you know!

Due to the proximity of a supermarket, my evening meal was delux: guacamole with crudités, spinach and ricotta pasta, and beer. There are more courses available but I'm too full for 'em. And the 'empty' gas cannister is still going strong!

Day 28: to Tuttlingen (60; 1612)

I suppose I should have known that crossing from the Rhine to the Danube would involve some hills, it being a major European watershed and all. And indeed  that doing it through the middle of a hot day would be hard work. But the thing about this trip is: if I thought about all the potential problems I would never have started!

My traitorous map also deserves some blame here. It allegedly marks any hill over 5% with arrows. The morning had a few of these but no more than expected. Though due to some kind yet misplaced unsolicited directions (from a post lady and then from some farm workers) I ended up taking those hills on rather busier roads than expected, and hence a bit faster than usual.

The unexpected part however was that immediately post-lunch there was a 10k section that was entirely uphill. Now I would possibly be willing to believe it wasn't all 5% (though frankly, 10k of 4.99% would also have nearly killed me). But the way down after the top was 15% according to the road signs. And none of it was arrowed on my map.

Anyway, I made it but really not in good style. The views along the top were magnificent. But I and a loaded Horace are REALLY not made for hill-climbing.

Ok, rant over.

When we got down, we hit the Danube! Which is tiny and sluggish here. I had planned to go further but the next camping is about 30k, the day is hot, and the Capulets are abroad. Ok, not that last one. But Tuttlingen has all the things I need tonight including a free municipal camping ground.

Last night was a strangely cold night between roasting days. Accuweather at one point was suggesting nighttime temperatures down to 7 deg and daytime up to 32. In fact it 'only' reached about 25 today but nonetheless I feel somewhat like I'm camping in a desert climate suddenly.

It was very hard to tear myself away from the Bodensee this morning, it is so beautiful and peaceful, though I'm sure it will get less so as the Whitsun holiday weekend starts tonight. The first 10k of the day was following lovely small paths close to the shore and I stopped for morning coffee on the lakeside at Radolfzell just so I could watch the water a bit longer before heading inland.

Inland of course also turned out to be beautiful, with a lot of market gardening and hay-cutting going on (one with a stork stalking along behind the mower).

I must have drunk about four litres of water today, but none of it seems to have made it through to my kidneys. So now I'm trying an iced cappuccino instead. And then maybe a few beers. 

Day 27: to Hornstaad, Germany (79km; 1552)

Completely the opposite of yesterday: today has been plain sailing under a sunny sky, and I've felt totally blessed.

After a stormy night it's been sunny and breezy, the paths well-marked, the natives friendly, and I have successfully muddled through in German where required. Oh and it's been seriously beautiful country. Lots of hills though, as the path has deviated a lot from the Rhine itself. In fact looking at a map I have now officially said goodbye to the Rhine. She has treated me well!

As I left the campsite this morning someone mentioned some waterfalls so I had a look on the map and made sure to go that way. Well the Rheinfalls at Neuhasen were just amazing! 'Europe's largest waterfall' -perhaps in volume rather than height, it was a bit like Niagra but somewhat less commercial and in somewhat better taste. Being a weekday it was not heaving and was a lovely, unexpected treat.

The way out however was a 15% climb. Just sayin'...

The Swiss-German border round here is ridiculous, I must have crossed it ten times today. It concerned me only in that I still don't have any Swiss francs, so needed to know which side I'm on before buying anything! Usually I could tell by the registration plates of parked cars, and by the flags in people's gardens (some use for this weird habit!). The Germany-to-Switzerland customs controls are heavily patronised because, as Uschi explained to me, the Swiss get tax back on German purchases at the border.

Tonight I am on Lake Constance, or the Bodensee as the Germans call it. In fact I'm on a sub-lake, but it still seems to count. This is big holiday territory and the campsite is large and commercial (though I have a whole tent section to myself). Staying on it gives you access to a private 'beach', which is mostly park, but has also provided a super calzone dinner with a view. Following Ed's lead I decided to swim instead of shower and it was really quite pleasant, temperature-wise (17 deg according to a notice). It is shallow for a long way out though so I was probably in toastier-than-that water as a result.

Over the 1500k mark, I am about half way to Budapest now. I hesitate to write this, fearing bike breakage or other major disaster: but I feel like I am in a good rhythm. I am really enjoying both the moving on and, surprisingly, the peace and privacy that camping gives. 

Day 26: to Waldshut, Germany (73k; 1473)

Something of a challenging day. Started grumpy after a caffeine-driven poor night's sleep, and sad to say goodbye to Uschi and her home comforts. Got grumpier as I repeatedly got lost all morning in Basel and the villages east of there, with google maps having apparently given up the ghost on me. Then around noon the rain started...

But then after grumbling to myself for a while, suddenly I came round the corner and there was a great view of the Rhine looking all mysterious in the gloom and a group of about thirty cyclists come past, all saying hello, and then I found I was grinning from ear to ear.

 

Other good parts: surprisingly pretty old towns (Bavaria!) and a section through a nature reserve where there were swans, ducks, and the ubiquitous funny-looking geese (Chinese says Katy) nesting all over the cycle path. Not sure about the whole 'swans can break a man's arm' thing but I bet they could get through Horace's Kevlar tyres, if anything can.

Ten km from my destination the rain became much harder, and I checked in to a campsite with a bunch of other cyclists who were trying to escape the rain and get rooms (there were none left). Thumbs up for having a tent. This is a very organised site right on the river, which seems narrow and surprisingly fast-flowing here. Despite arriving mid-afternoon they sorted me out with a cracking lasagne type thing (which I ordered fairly blind, having worked out 'pasta' and 'mince' in the description). The site also has a bar and a 'sitting room' for campers so despite the rain I have hopes for a comfortable evening.

Due to a badly-timed cappuccino I missed a dry window and instead ended up pitching my tent in the rain for the first time, and with an audience looking on. Well readers, I am delight to report I absolutely rocked it. A small victory, but an important one today.

Spending this much time alone with yourself is odd, like a solitary retreat. It's interesting to note how one's moods come and go pretty much regardless of external stimuli. My basic strategy for survival is that everything seems better after a coffee (before 6pm) or a beer (after 3pm). Just now I've had both.

Day 25: in Basel

Lovely hot day in Basel and I really enjoyed catching up with Uschi and her lovely kids (Daniel 8 & Anna 6). Daniel was a baby last time I met him! Uschi fed me lots of coffee and cake and raclette (yum), we got cherries from a farm shop, picked up the kids from the Basel International School (one to consider, A&D) and took them to after school horse riding etc. An interesting insight into Swiss life. 

Fact of the day - Switzerland seems to suffer no modern parenting anxiety and kids are expected to be able to take themselves unsupervised to school by the time they start (age 6).

Day 24: to Basel, Switzerland (73k; 1400)

I spent the night piling on more clothes and the early morning taking them off again as the sun heated up my tent.

Monday morning is market morning in Neuf-Brisach. I had a croissant and baguette from the campsite, but headed into town afterwards for a coffee and a look round. Very impressive place.

I spoke to two cyclists who had come up from Basel yesterday, they confirmed the Rhine-side path is more of the high, unpaved, exposed kind. Instead I opted for the French route across farmland and little villages. Mid morning there was a long stretch through an old forest. I was tempted to stop by the sign for a 'remarkable tree!' - well, it was just a tree and not remarkable at all. (Reminded of cycling instructions from Estonia - 'turn right; after 30km there is a large rock..').

I hit the canal du Rhone au Rhin again, this time larger and navigable again. I stopped for lunch at a picnic spot by the canal, at which point it started spitting. After sitting it out for a while I realised it wasn't getting any worse, and it was pretty much stationary, whereas I was going to cycle ahead of it. Confirmed when half an hour later some fishermen saw my waterproofs and asked me where the rain was!

I came into the 'petit carmargue de Alsace' - a bit of nice wetland with bird hides and other inexplicable things including a to-scale model of the solar system spread along several km of bike path.

The final stage into Basel was a bit of a nightmare. I was totally lost in the Novartis site (funnily enough this has happened to me before, but usually with a suit on..). Realised I was cycling straight through a customs point. Then back through another one. Crossed a huge intersection with a police car just behind me and no idea what the cycle signs mean. Then the cycle lane turned into a tram track, with a tyre-width trough in the middle of it. Nil points, Switzerland, nil points.

Eventually made it into the old town, realised I had only two Swiss francs, not enough for a coffee. So instead headed straight out towards my ex-Psychiatry friend Uschi's house in Therwil, a southern suburb, this time along more officially designated cycle routes.

Uschi's husband works for Roche and they moved out here a year ago and are enjoying the Swiss life. Specifically they have a gorgeous house on a hillside and I write to you from a very sunny terrace... I hadn't seen her for maybe 6 years so lovely to reconnect with an old friend. That's what this year is all about!