Arriving into Sunday lunchtime in Bilbao old town was a bit horrifying. I am always shocked by a return to urban centres after days in the hills. In part because you realise how sweaty and mud-caked you are, in part because I don't actually like the increased number of people involved. And apparently Sunday lunchtime is the time when Bilbao's inhabitants come out to promenade, eat and drink, play with the kids etc. I was heartened to see some small girls playing basketball; as always in rural Spain it's been noticeable that it's only ever men you see sitting around the town squares, in the cafes, and even cycling (and there is a lot of cycling around here). Women are apparently home cooking the dinners, the lucky things.
Other than cyclists, the Basque Country has been full of: fig and eucalyptus trees, goats, donkeys, ponies, dog of every conceivable shape and size. And mud, lots and a lots of creamy beige mud.
Our group dynamic changes today - after a few days of being four we are back up to six from tonight.
Niall shows camino style